When I decided to eat all the edible parts of the cow, I really didn’t think it would be that hard.
I am a big eater and like almost everything. I can count on one hand the foods I dislike. I assumed with the cow eating there would be parts that sounded gross and things I would not love. I had no idea there would be parts that I honestly couldn’t swallow. That is, until I tried chinchulines. Continue reading Eating an Entire Cow (not in one sitting) part 4→
On Sundays there is a huge and I mean HUGE street market that stretches from the downtown area for block and blocks down a narrow street to the neighborhood of San Telmo. San Telmo is famous for the street market, tango bars, and people doing tango in the street. We actually somehow missed everyone doing tango in the street. Every time we came across someone that looked like they might do tango in the street, they were resting, eating, or standing on a box playing guitar.
The street is so narrow and filled with people that claustrophobia overtook us at one point and we had to go down the street to a cafe for a relaxing cup of coffee. Although for me it wasn’t too relaxing.
The vendors I found the most interesting were the ones selling mate cups and the straws called bombillas. Yerba mate is a type of drink that Argentinians are crazy for. In the grocery stores there are bags and bags of yerba mate lining the shelves. You can’t easily get it at restaurants or cafes in Buenos Aires, so we hadn’t really seen it being drunk.
Once I knew what to look for I realized every vendor, no matter what they were selling, was also drinking yerba mate.
On the walk home we passed a park where everyone was also drinking yerba mate. If you look at the guy in the background (the one that’s not Jeff) you can see he’s drinking out of a bombilla.
Makes me want to give up coffee and try mate for awhile….maybe.
After three weeks in Buenos Aires I’m finally getting slightly tired of Argentinian food. Not dulce de leche, I could never tire of that. but steaks in general.
The beauty of beef is Buenos Aires is, the butcher will take a “bife de lomo” steak and grind it into ground beef for you. And, he won’t even mind when you panic, forget every word in Spanish and just grunt and point at his case filled with meats. And, when he finally picks the one you want and you have no clue what the word for “to grind” is, he looks around his shop until he spots the grinder and suggests he uses it. And, when he asks you if you want it put through the grinder once or twice and you just stare blankly because not only do you not know all these words, but even if you did, you didn’t know you could have it ground twice, he just does it once for you once and wraps it up with a smile.Another amazing thing about Buenos Aires is you can get Mexican taco makings at the store.
Tacos made with an Argentinian tenderloin steak are so good it’s almost like cheating. It’s tempting to eat the rest of the cow ground up in a taco, especially since you can eat brains and tongue in a taco in Mexico. But, after this taco (which was amazing) I am going back to the Argentinian parilla for the rest of the cow.
One of the biggest things to see in Buenos Aires is the Recoleta cematery. But, we are Recoleta cemetery challenged. The first try we took the wrong bus and ended up at a polo stadium. On the second try we walked. By the time we got there we had heat stroke, and the cemetery was long closed for the day.
So instead we decided to go to a different cemetery, Cemetario de la Chacarita. Not only is it the biggest cemetery in South America, the world famous tango singer Carlos Gardel is buried here.
And, you can get there by subway.
It was his birthday, (He lived from 1890 – 1935 when he died in a plane crash.) so it seemed fitting to visit his tomb. It sounds strange to visit a cemetery, but his gravesite was anything but somber.
The cemetery is enormous. Each tomb is like a little house, rows and rows of them, it was like a small city with streets and blocks of granite and marble tombs.
I’m a little behind on my cow eating entries. I had my second steak experience on Jeff’s birthday which was almost a week ago. We went to a restaurant called La Cabrera. This is like the Uno’s of Buenos Aires. It’s extremely popular and extremely good. It’s mostly tourists but locals go too because it’s that good.
We got there way too early for dinner – 9:30. But even then there was a wait. A hostess took our names (in English) typed them into the computer and told us to come back in 45 minutes.