Category: Argentina

  • Mendoza – happiness is a new dish towel

    We’ve made it to  Mendoza, Argentina. Mendoza is know for it’s amazing wine, good food and being close to the Andes.    But, forget sight seeing, wine tasting, white water rafting, horse back riding, the only thing I want to do right now is find a dish towel.

    this paper towel is not that absorbent.

    Our Mendoza “home” is a furnished tourist apartment, the 5th one on our stay so far.   We’ll be staying here for a week to two months depending on

    1. How much we like Mendoza.
    2. How much we like the apartment.
    3. When and if we can buy a dish towel.

    Except for several nights, we’ve stayed almost entirely in furnished temporary rental apartments. These apartments are set up for tourists and can usually be rented by the day, week or month.  They’re perfect for us because they’re big enough for all our stuff and have kitchens so we can cook. They also have the internet because we make sure to only stay in ones that do.  There are some beautiful ones out there and some not-so-nice ones.  We stay at the best ones we can afford on our travel budget. Depending on the city, that can sometimes be great and sometimes worse than the worst college apartment you ever lived in.

    We’ve got the move in routine down pat.

    Prior to move – secure apartment online. Marvel at beauty of apartment in photos.  Dream of our new temporary home.

    Arrive in town by bus or plane – race to a ATM, withdraw rent money.  Stuff bills into our money belts.  Look like we’re doing something very weird in ATM booth with hands down our pants.

    Taxi Stand – use spacial reasoning to access which taxi can fit Jeff’s bike suitcase.  Fit rest of our luggage around it, sit in back  on top of suitcase with luggage piled to car ceiling if necessary.

    Schlep luggage from taxi to new apartment, pity new landlord – our new landlord is always waiting for us at our new apartment. He quickly  hides his look of horror as we pull up with our luggage. They all paste on pretend smiles as they help us drag it all in.

    Frantic apartment once over – Jeff distracts landlord with idle chatter as I race around behind the scenes and check out – are there towels, sheets,  hot water, pots, pans, working toilet?

    I should have asked what the knobs are for. The flusher is on the top.

    internet password confusion – as Jeff runs out of small talk, I boot up my IPOD and check wifi.  Ask landlord for password, try, retry, ask again, have him write it down, have landlord call friend to reconfirm it’s correct, try again. Try one more time.

    rent payment – hands back down pants to get money out of our money belts.  Careful sorting, unfolding and counting of rent money. Detailed receipt issued by landlord.

    key handover – landlord hands over keys which look like they last unlocked a 15th century monastery.   Wonder how these will ever fit in our pocket.

    landlord goodbye kiss -sometimes kiss, sometimes shake hands, sometimes kiss by accident.

    moment of panic – we sink into stained couch, broken dining room chair, cracked lawn chair, or sagging bed and try not to cry.  This looks nothing like the photos.

    moment of acceptance – And then we pull it together. We’re in Argentina for God sakes, it’s not so bad, in fact, it’s awesome.  Who needs daylight, an oven, towels, working toilet.  What’s a few bugs, so what if it smells so bad you have a migraine, the bed sags so much you won’t be able to sleep. The pots and pans are rusty? We’ve had our tetanus shots.  Who needs to sit on that couch, we can dry off with an old sock.  We can fashion window screens from mosquito netting, we can build our own desk out of wood.

    moment of thankfulness that we carry a small kitchen with us – dish towels, cutting boards, sharp knives, cheese grater, skillet, salt and pepper shakers, spices, spatula, wine opener, measuring cups, can opener.

    things from home
    things we've bought and take with us from apartment to apartment

    moment of sadness – when realize we’ve left half those items  behind.  That beautiful dish towel, shiny cookie sheet, the green pasta strainer, all left behind in the last rental apartment.

    scavenger hunt begins -all we need are a few things to make this livable – dish towel, soap dish, bath mat, towel hooks, utensil holder. That can’t be hard, I’ll run out and get them.

    city map in hand, ready to find that dish towel

    Then the hunt begins.  Time to go buy a new dish towel.  Where would they sell such a thing? Yesterday I looked at a big supermarket (where I bought the last 2 in other cities), street market, bathroom towel store, and kitchen store.  None of them had dish towels.   But today is a new day.  Somewhere out there between the wineries, vineyards,  fancy restaurants and the Andes is a dish towel just waiting to be purchased.

  • Coca leaves – an altitude wimp’s best friend

    There’s no way around it. I’m a wimp.   I get winded going up stairs, have to eat every two hours, need lots of water and sleep, don’t like cold, hot,  humidity, wind, snow, rain, and worms.

    So, it’s no surprise that I’m sensitive to high altitudes.     When we stopped in the town of Humahuaca at 9,100 feet above sea level Jeff and Dean felt fine,  I felt weird.

    Walking around town I was headachey, dizzy, and tired.   It must have been obvious, because as I staggered by a row of stalls, every woman held up a green bag of coca leaves.

    coca leaf sellers

    I bought a bag for the equivalent of 75 cents, took out some leaves and started chewing.  They taste exactly like you would think dried leaves would taste like, bitter, hard and kind of gross.

    But they really did help. By the time I walked up a giant set of stairs to meet Jeff and Dean  I felt like myself again.  The only effect besides not feeling altitude sick  was my lips and tongue went numb.

    That night in Ticara at 8,200  I started feeling sick again, so pulled out more leaves at dinner.  After chewing several mouthfuls I felt much better.

    Then the next day when we hit the pass on the way to the Salinas Grandes and got up to 14,000 feet I felt positively awful.  But, after chewing a wad of leaves I felt better

    Coca leaves are chewed and legal in Boliva, Peru, Ecuador and parts of Chile and Argentina, but not legal everywhere. They are illegal in the US in the “out of the bag” form.

    They’re illegal because they are one of the ingredients in cocaine. But in the amount I was chewing they had no drug effect.    You would need tons and tons of leaves, and other chemicals to have any cocaine effects.

    Surprisingly, they are also an ingredient in Coca Cola.   They are specially imported into the US and “de-cocained.”   You can also buy them on Amazon.com  Not sure if they are “decocanied” or not.

    All I know is that as I was legally chewing them, I had no drug-like effects, but did feel much much better at 14,000 feet.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYRmPiUknvg

  • Putting the salt into our stay in Salta

    We just got back from a road trip to see this giant salt flat.  You might think, “Well of course you’re living in the city of Salta.” But, this giant field of salt is not in the city of Salta, or even the province of Salta. It’s in a province called Jujuy.   I’m not sure what Salta is named after, but I don’t think it’s this.

    It’s always surreal the first time you see someone from home in a foreign country.   Our Seattle friend Dean is in town and when I met up with Jeff and Dean after my Spanish class, they were in the main square eating empanadas and drinking malbac as if it was the most normal thing in the world to meet for dinner in Salta Argentina.

    When Dean suggested a road trip through the mountains north of Salta, we jumped at the chance to join him.

    We started in Salta, drove up to Purmamarca, continued on to Humahuaca, circled back, slept in Tilcara, then drove to the Salinas Grandes the following day.

    To say the mountains and canyon were breathtaking  sounds cliche, but I really don’t know how else to describe it.    We went through lush green valleys, dry cactus studded canyons, a torrential downpour, dry bare mountains and ended in a blinding white field of salt. And, in between we stopped in some incredible small mountain towns.


    The town of Purmamarca was the most striking with multi colored mountains behind adobe  buildings on dusty streets.


    In Humahuaca the city was truly nestled in the mountains with lots of craft stalls and indigenous women and children selling blankets.

    We spent the night in Tilcara, a town we’ve been to before.   It was fun to be able to walk the streets at night, hear some late night music, and walk around as the town came to life in the morning.

    I was thrilled to come upon these hamburger patties in a store in Tilcara.

    Who wants a barfy?

    The next day we drove through part of the Andes.  They weren’t the snow covered peaks you think of when you think Andes, but we did get up to 14,000 feet.  I do not have that many photos from this part of the trip because most of it was spent in the backseat with my hands over my eyes. Dean drove these the mountains really well, but I don’t do that well with heights.

    Can you tell I'm on a the verge of a panic attack?

    Once we were through this mountain pass we came to the salt plains.  It was unlike anything I’ve seen before, just a giant field of salt for as far as you could see.   It looked like you were walking on a giant cloud or snow field. But, it was hot and the salt crunched underfoot. We of course had to try it and…it tasted like salt.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Cafayate wine tasting score: Zeunerts 1-siesta 5- bus 1

    I’d love to say that we just came upon this llama out grazing or perhaps carrying a load of goods for a it’s owner.  But, in reality this was a photo op with a tourist llama. We paid fifty cents to get our photo taken with him.

    We hadn’t planned a day of tourist llamas, the day was supposed to be spent wine tasting.   Cafayate is the center of high altitude Argentinian wine production.  We’ve been drinking some excellent wine from the region and wanted to taste it at the actual wineries.

    There are several ways to wine taste in Cafayate. You can rent a car, go by bus, stay several nights, or go on a one day tourist excursion.  We opted for the excursion.  The tour was to stop at several sites along the way, the we’d have from 12:00 to 3:00 in the town of Cafayate.  There are about five wineries in town.   Jeff and I are experienced high speed wine tasters.  Smell, swirl, sip, run like hell to the next winery has always been our method of tasting wine.  We were confident that we could hit five wineries in three hours no problem.

    The ride to Cafayate was stunning. We went through a gorge and canyon stopping along the way for photos.   The multi colored rocks, and formations like Devil’s Throat alone were worth the trip.

    Devil's throat

    The bus got to Cafayate around noon and stopped at winery number 1, Nanni.   We had a great tasting there.

    The other two couples on the tour weren’t interested in tasting wine. You can see them in the background in the photo.   We left them to have lunch while we quickly scarfed down some empanadas and coffee.  We couldn’t wait to taste more wine.  We walked quickly to winery number two.

    Winery #2 – closed for sietsta

    Wintery #3 – closed for siesta

    Winery #4 – closed for siesta

    Winery #5 – closed maybe forever

    You would think after almost three months in Argentina, we’d realize that businesses close from 1:00 to 4:00. Honestly, it never crossed our minds before doing this tour.  Finally we accepted the fact that we weren’t going to get into any wineries.

    We raced to a wine bar.   We asked to see a wine menu. They didn’t know what we meant. We asked if we could do a tasting.  The waiter didn’t understand. Maybe several half glasses?  Still didn’t get it. How about just a glass of wine? No, they didn’t offer glasses of wine, only bottles.

    not exactly Purple or Poco (2 Seattle wine bars)

    We wandered around town, circled back and retried several wineries. Finally with only fifteen minutes before the bus left, we ran to a restaurant and ordered any two random glasses of wine. We chugged them and got back on the bus.

    On the way back to Salta we stopped at a winery…just to take photos. We weren’t actually allowed into the winery.  We did stop and see more really beautiful scenery.

    But the tourist llama really was really the best part of the trip.

     

  • Salta market – this sure ain’t Pike Place Market

    **Vegetarian warning – this post contains some super gross looking cow parts about half way down the page.**

    **Don’t read this if you are eating or planning on eating in the next 12 hours.**

    The Salta market started out innocently enough. As with all markets, this one had the usual interesting and photogenic items for sale. Cheese, spices, veggies, Jesus.

    It even sells cocoa leaves which are chewed or brewed in tea to alleviate altitude sickness and as a mild stimulant. They are illegal in some countries and some parts of Argentina.

    As in most markets, this one also  has a gross meat section.

     

    Hooves aren't edible are they?

    When I go to a market, I’m always prepared for the gross stuff. It’s almost like a horror movie, getting scared is half the fun.   I walk around sort of shielding my eyes, preparing myself for some gross thing.

    This stack of hooves (cow maybe?) seemed to do it. It was a nice “OMG that’s so gross,” moment.

    I wasn’t however, prepared for this next site.

    holy crap, what is this?

    I mean really, what is that?  And, why is it hanging like that?  And, what is this white stuff?

    don't know what this is either, but I know it's gross.

    The sheer largeness and casual way it was displayed added to the horror.  Look closely below. There is an advertisement for a religious festival, then to the right of the photo is a hanging bit of grossness, and then standing between the two hanging…what to call them….animal parts(?)  is a woman at the counter.  One move left or right and that white hanging thing will swing into her arm or head.

    Religious advertisement, hanging meat, and a woman

    I’m not sure how they decide what to put behind glass and what to leave hanging in the below photo.  Seems like it would be better all behind glass.

    I’m going to be taking a short break from my cow eating (tonight I had pork for dinner.)  I need some time to erase these images from my brain.    I know that all meat comes from animals, and no matter how clean and neat it looks cooked on a plate, it all starts off like this.  But come on, it was like entire cows hanging by their large intestines.   That’s enough to gross anyone out, even a entire cow eater like myself.